Laoag City, Ilocos Norte
My longganisa travel begins in Laoag, a name that translates to light in Ilocano language, and for a very good reason, it'll shed light on my sausage appetite.
Where to find Laoag’s bestDays prior to my trip, I read in a review of some hungry traveler that the best longganisa is found right inside the public market — Aling Fe’s carinderia, where uncooked longganisa is sold and if you insist, Aling Fe can cook it for you for a fee.
So off to the market Lok and I went. The tricycle driver who took us from the plaza to the market told us that the best longganisa in Laoag is that of Johnny Julian’s, sold in one of the market’s meat stall.
No, we want it long
Two flights of stairs and a quick right later led us to
Johnny Julian’s stall, which was manned by Nanay Edith and an assistant. To my disappointment, only familiar sausages hung on the hooks; Nanay Edith informed me that their long sausages sold out before noon and we arrived two hours late. I told her about my longganisa project and asked if they can cook their remaining sausages for us, Lok and I were starving. She said she can but we’d have to go to her two-storey home in Barangay 3.
A rewarding bite off Laoag’s “best” longganisa was extremely tempting, but our stomachs couldn’t wait any longer so I said no. Aw. I thanked Nanay Edith and bid her goodbye, then scanned the other meat stalls but no one was selling the thing that I badly wanted — really long longganisa.
Reluctantly, Lok and I left the market and walked to the next block, hoping to see a canteen selling longganisa. To our dismay, there was only Jollibee, banks and local stores of sort around the block. We decided to seek help from a local, the courteous driver who gladly took us around town, and stopped by at least four canteens. Sadly, they, like Johnny Julian’s, have sold out their longganisa. The driver wasn’t surprised. He explained that longganisa is sold only during mornings; the idea of all-day breakfast has yet to reach provinces at the tip of Luzon.
We weren’t lucky but I still had high hopes. Lok and I settled for lunch in a carienda past across the Laoag-Pagudpud terminal. We had
dinengdeng, Ilocos’ version of pinakbet,
igado and
inihaw na liempo.
An hour later still at the carienda, Madi arrived. She flew in from Manila at Laoag International Airport, traveling for less than an hour compared to our half-day bus ride. Ugh.
While Madi was having lunch, I left for the market again, determined to find what I want before we leave for Pagudpud. This time around, I was lucky. At the far corner, there were two long longganisa hanging on a steel bar. I quickly made my way to the stall. This was my chance.
Laoag is world’s longest longganisaMeet Aling Gloria. That’s
Gloria Manuel of
Felicing’s Cooked Meat, Stall #46 of Laoag’s public market.
Manang (Ate) Gloria has been making longganisa for more than a decade. Her family helps out in her business, making longganisa and manning their stall. She refused to say where or who taught her how to do it.
Manang Gloria proudly announces that Laoag has the world’s longest and best tasting longganisa. Last fiesta, the local government brought together with the longganisa manufacturers who made what would now be the Guiness-certified world’s longest longganisa.
She shares what she uses to make her longganisa:
• Grounded pork
• Ilocos garlic
• Ilocos vinegar
• Salt
• Pepper
• Vetsin
She refused to say how much of each goes into the long sausage. Her recipe, she insisted, is a secret and other longganisa makers wouldn’t give away their secret; they have their own suki.
Laoag longganisa comes in long or short tubes, both has the same taste. They say some favor long sausages while others, who sell them, like sausages of equal servings. One long longganisa can weigh as ¾ to 1 kilo. Uncooked, the sausage’s grounded meat looks pale brown inside a smoky, translucent pig intestine casing, which is cleaned and not dried. When cooked, it takes on a burnt brown color with a pungent and spicy aroma.
According to Manang Gloria, the Ilocos longganisa owes its distinct taste much to the Ilocos garlic and vinegar and rightly so, one can’t ignore the strong fusion of garlic and vinegar of cooked Laoag longganisa. The pungent scent later creates a foul mouth bomb after eating so be sure to have a mouthwash in hand.
Laoag longganisa is best eaten with rice and dipped in Ilocos vinegar with chopped garlic. But one can also eat it “kahit walang sawsawan kasi kumpleto na ang rekado,” adds Manang Gloria.
I bought 1 kilo of longganisa, that’s one really long longganisa and then some. I took it to Pagudpud and had it for dinner. In less than 15 minutes, Lok, Madi and I finished everything.
*****
LAOAG LONGGANISA:
Uncooked: Brown, long longganisa. One long longganisa which measures 24 to 30 inches, and weighs approximately ¾ kilo. Meat is stuffed into pig’s intestine, which isn’t sun-dried unlike Lucban longganisa. Its garlic and meat are chunkier than its Ilocos Sur counterpart.
Cooked: Has burnt brown color and smells strongly of garlic and vinegar
Packaging: Newspaper. Longganisa curled in sheets of newspaper to prevent from smelling, then placed in a plastic bag.
Shelf life: The vinegar lets the sausage last up to five days in room temperature.
How to cook it:
Fried: Boil and let simmer until water dries up. Fry in its own oil or add oil as necessary.
Grilled: Grill like any meat.
Best eaten: Fried - dipped in Ilocos vinegar
Grilled - dipped in ketchup
